The right paint and the right preparation protect your machine against rust and wear – and last for many years. Here we go through how to choose the type of paint, prepare the surface and paint correctly, whether you need a small touch-up or a full repaint.

Step 1 of 4
Withstands moisture, soil, manure and changing temperatures. The right colour matters for a restoration.
Extra resistant to gravel, stone, clay and mechanical wear. Requires careful groundwork.
Buckets, rims, implement brackets and steps. A touch-up is often enough.
Step 2 of 4
Look out for these signs that it’s time to act:
✔ Flaking or peeling
✔ Rust spots
✔ Scratches down to the metal
✔ Faded or dull paint
✔ Stone-chip damage
✔ Worn steps or rims
Tip: If the damage is small and localised, a touch-up will do. If the surface is faded, uneven or damaged over large areas – choose a full repaint for an even result.
Step 3 of 4
Remove mud, oil and dirt. Take extra care around hydraulics, hinges and rims.
Even a seemingly clean surface can have grease or wax residue. Degreasing reduces the risk of the paint letting go.
Use a wire brush, abrasive cloth or sander. If you paint over rust, the problem soon comes back.
A matt surface gives better adhesion. Wipe off all sanding dust carefully before you continue.
On bare metal, primer is always needed for good adhesion and rust protection.
Step 4 of 4
Touch-ups, implements, chassis parts and hard-to-reach areas.
Larger flat surfaces. Good for beds, buckets and machine parts.
The smoothest finish. Suits bonnets, fenders and whole machines. Requires more preparation.
Machinery paint, primer, hardener if needed, thinner and degreaser.
Gloves, safety goggles, respiratory protection and good ventilation.
Sandpaper, sander, wire brush, masking tape and protective sheeting.
Don’t forget: Always apply several thin coats and give the paint time to cure properly – not just dry – before the machine is put back into use.
No. Paint over rust lets go quickly, and the rust keeps working underneath. Remove all rust and loose paint with a wire brush, abrasive cloth or sander, sand down to sound metal and apply primer before you paint. It’s the groundwork that determines how long the result lasts.
On bare metal you always need primer – it provides adhesion and rust protection. For a touch-up on a surface with intact existing paint, it’s usually enough to sand it matt and paint directly, provided you haven’t gone all the way down to the metal.
If the damage is small and localised – the odd scratch, stone chip or minor rust spot – a touch-up is enough. If the paint is faded, dull or damaged over large areas, touching up gives an uneven result, and then a full repaint is the right way to a smooth finish.
A brush suits touch-ups, implements, chassis parts and hard-to-reach areas. A roller is good for larger flat surfaces such as beds and buckets. A spray gives the smoothest finish on bonnets, fenders and whole machines, but requires more preparation and masking.
Apply several thin coats rather than one thick one – thin coats dry more evenly and don’t run. Two to three coats is common, but always follow the instructions on your specific paint for the number of coats and the drying time between them.
Distinguish between drying and curing. The paint can feel dry to the touch after a few hours but needs considerably longer to cure properly and reach full durability. Give it time according to the manufacturer’s instructions before the machine is put back into use, otherwise you risk marks and poorer durability.
For a restoration, the right colour matters for appearance and resale value, especially on tractors where the brand colour is distinctive. For implements and details, the exact colour is less critical – there, protection and durability matter more than the shade.

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FAQ / Frequently Asked Questions